All about balsamico

The seal is awarded to IGP «aceti» that have spent three years in wood. 

Even fine specimens that have been matured for years fall under this unprotected category if they come from outside the gourmet centre that is Reggio Emilia. 

The premium class of fine vinegar: a proud 25 years of barrel-ageing – or more. 

The processing of the must as well as the refinement with repeated decanting is even more complex than with igp varieties and, crucially, it lasts longer: from the cooking at 80 degrees minimum to maturation, it can take more than 12 years. 

Must be produced in Modena from a base of cooked grape must and wine vinegar. Permitted grape varieties: Lambrusco, Trebbiano, Sangiovese, Albana, Ancellotta, Fortana and Montuni. Matured for at least 60 days in a sequence of barrels, with the wood progressing from oak to chestnut, cherry, ash and finally mulberry.

Acidity – the ambivalent attribute for gourmet food, even among vinegars. Perhaps the term «balsamico» was intended to disguise this, given that it refers to its fragrant, balm-like character.

Serving undiluted balsamico as a kind of low-alcohol apéro – this is becoming more and more popular.

In addition to salad dressings and meat sauces or marinades, balsamico can also be used on gelato, and makes a delicious topping for strawberries, melons, Parmesan …

Olive oil, salt, pepper and balsamico – the holy quaternity for a classic Italian vinaigrette.

In traditionally produced balsamico, the grape must is cooked down to as little as a third before being mixed with old balsamic vinegar and fresh wine vinegar. Balsamico often matures in wooden barrels that are stored in an attic for multiple summers. In the heat, a portion of the vinegar evaporates, condensing the remaining portion and concentrating the flavour. It is bottled with a residual alcohol content of around 1.5 per cent.

Black gold

The colour serves as a dubious quality guarantee: the longer it spends cosying up to wood, the darker a matured balsamico will shine. But watch out for mass-produced vinegar, as it gets its deep tone from the addition of caramel colouring!

Premium balsamico is also made in Tuscany – at the Banfi winery, for instance. «Deep beneath the castle’s north wing hides our balsameria,» says Banfi CEO Cristina Mariani-May (pictured). Here, the balsamico matures in accordance with a method that – as the name implies – dates back to the Etruscans: Their balsamic production involves transferring the vinegar from one barrel to another, each one smaller than the last and made from a different type of wood. Maturation takes a whopping twelve years, before the precious vinegar makes its way into glass ampoules. It is the aromatic cherry on top for risotto, fish, fruit desserts or mature cheese!