Extra virgin

A really high-quality olive oil tastes spicy, is green, and a little bit bitter. And it should bear the «extra vergine» or «extra virgin» quality seal. This is the highest quality class, and it guarantees that the oil is gently cold-pressed and of immaculate quality. So the theory goes, anyway. Unfortunately, extra virgin olive oil is not always a top-quality product, because more and more often, dirty dealings result in this green gold being adulterated. So the most important indicator for quality comes down to our own senses. Our noses and palates are reliable analysts when it comes to recognising quality. Another clue is the price. Good olive oil is expensive because production is work-intensive. Ten to twenty kilograms of olives can be harvested from one olive tree, which yields only 2.5 litres of oil.

The olives should arrive at the olive mill within 48 hours of harvest, as they oxidise quickly – which would be disastrous for quality. Cold-pressing is the gentlest processing method. The olives are very slowly pressed over the course of one or two hours so that the olive paste doesn’t get warm and all the goodness (unsaturated fatty acids reduce cholesterol, vitamin E supports cellular health, polyphenols have anti-inflammatory properties) is not lost. After pressing, the oil is separated from the water content using mechanical centrifugal force. What’s left behind is high-quality, fresh and spicy extra virgin olive oil. The other option is warm pressing, an intense, fast-paced process. Warming the olive paste affects the flavours and fragrances, but affords the refined oil a longer shelf life.

Whether it’s grilling, braising, frying or drizzled over an «insalata caprese», olive oil works great in hot and cold dishes alike. High-quality extra-virgin olive oil can be heated to 180°C without any problems, and refined olive oil can even go as high as 210°C. As long as the pan isn’t smoking, you’re in the clear. Whether it’s worth «squandering» costly cold-pressed oil on frying is a matter for you to decide. A simple piece of bread is all it takes to allow the olive oil’s flavours to fully develop on your tongue. And if the oil’s fresh piquant flavour tickles your palate, you can be sure you’ve got a bottle of green gold on your hands.