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Update NowAmarone comes from Valpolicella in the northern Italian region of Veneto – but it doesn’t taste like a northerner! It caresses the palate with a silky smooth touch, glimmers with vitality and concentration, exhibiting Baroque richness and sumptuous fruit. You’ll fall head over heels, and not just because of the 17 per cent alcohol content …
Amarone – a sweet wine? Ma no! Traditionally, it has always been a dry wine. The impression of sweetness comes from the glycerine produced by the dried grapes during fermentation. The trend towards really sweet Amarone only came about in the last 15 years. But there’s still a limit:
15 grams of residual sugar is the maximum amount per litre.
The secret to Amarone is appassimento. This is the name of the drying process that comes before fermentation. The grapes are laid out on wooden racks in well-ventilated rooms to rest for two to four months, during which they lose up to 50 per cent of their weight. The result is small, shrivelled aroma bombs.
Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara are the big three when it comes to Amarone grapes. But for the past few years, long-forgotten varieties like Oseleta and Corvinone have been getting in on the act again. Leading producer Masi in particular has really contributed to their rebirth.
Amarone and game, now there’s a perfect match. Not to mention mature Parmigiano or Gorgonzola, pasta with hare or boar ragù, veal cheek, oxtail or, as a real treat, wagyu beef – all of which count themselves lucky to be paired with such a fine drop.
Such a big personality needs its space. Before enjoying, decant Amarone in a carafe with plenty of room to breathe and serve it in large glasses. This will allow it to fully reveal its bouquet.
You can easily put it in the cellar and forget about it for 15 years. During this time, it will swap out its fresh cherry aroma for a complex bouquet of rum-soaked fruit, leather, coffee beans, cigars and dried mushrooms.
No more than 18 degrees – that’s the ideal serving temperature for Amarone. Forget about room temperature! Any more than 20 degrees, and the aromas dissipate. That would be a shame indeed …
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