Molise

Anyone looking for a piece of unspoilt Italy has come to the right place: it is no exaggeration to call Molise an overlooked natural paradise. It is situated just above the heel of the Italian «boot», nestled between Abruzzo in the north and Campania and Puglia in the south. It has belonged to all three of them at one time or other. In 1963 the Italian government declared it an independent region. A miniature region: only the Aosta Valley is smaller and less populated. Molise extends from the Apennines to the Adriatic and its topography is mountainous throughout. There are even steep slopes directly behind the narrow coastal strip. The climate here is continental, which means the winters are harsh with a lot of snow in the mountains – perfect for wonderful ski areas like the Matese Massif with its mountain streams and its maple, oak and spruce forests.

Traditionally, the people of Molise were shepherds and farmers; they cultivated olive trees, grapevines, wheat, maize and tobacco. The region is also known for its artisan knife makers and scissor makers, who can still be seen at their craft today in the regional capital of Campobasso. In the 19th century, however, a large part of the population emigrated in search of work and food. Even today the region is not a wealthy one. Its winegrowing industry is likewise modest. The growing area consists of 5,000 hectares of vineyards; the winemakers are mostly organised in cooperatives and still sell a lot of their wine in bulk. But recently more and more producers have been taking the reins for themselves.

The two most important grape varieties in the Molise wine region were introduced from neighbouring Abruzzo, which governed Molise for a long time. These are Montepulciano d’Abruzzo for red wine and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo for white wine. Recently, however, there has been a drive to expand the range. Winemakers are getting inspiration from Campania, which has a real treasure trove of ancient southern Italian varieties. Grapes such as Aglianico, Fiano and Greco di Tufo are putting down roots in Molise now as well.

An inside tip is Tintilia del Molise. For quality reasons this rare grape is only permitted to grow at an elevation of over 200 metres. It yields very dark, tannic wines. The winemakers’ classic repertoire also includes Moscato in a sweet and sparkling version.

Molise agricultural heritage can be seen in its cuisine as well. Among the regional specialities are piquant sheep and goat cheese, pasta sauces with pork rind, lamb and kid, often seasoned with the local peperoncino, affectionately called «Diavolino», which means little devil and provides plenty of inner heat on a cold day. The pasta here is made «alla chitarra»: a rolling pin is used to push the dough through the «gitarra» – a beechwood frame holding steel wire. This gives it a square profile that allows it to soak up a lot of sauce. Also, many traditional cakes and desserts are made with olive oil instead of butter.

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Biferno, Molise, Pentro di Isernia, Tintilia del Molise

Borgo di Colloredo, Di Majo Norante