A courageous and successful trio of women at the Cotarella family’s vineyard estate.
Falesco’s Tellus and Est! Est!! Est!!! – masterpieces from Lazio, in white and red.
But this isn’t a tale to take lightly! In the 12th century, as legend has it, a German bishop named Johannes Fugger was travelling to Rome to see the Pope. He loved a drop or two of good grape, and is said to have sent an assistant ahead of him on the voyage, to taste the wine along the route. Wherever the assistant came across a worthwhile wine, he was supposed to write «Est» on the door of the inn, which means «This is it». In Montefiascone, a good 100 kilometres before Rome, the assistant thought the wine tasted so outstanding that he became euphoric. «Est! Est!! Est!!!» he wrote on the gate of the pub in his excitement. And Fugger’s reaction was no different. For a long time after he died, this wine was poured over his grave each year.
Who knows whether this anecdote is true or not, but in any case, the wine from Lazio, the region around Rome, has no shortage of history. It is an established fact that the ancient Romans loved to indulge in Falernian wine, which they produced from the Aminea grape, now extinct. Even today over 50 different grape varieties, many of them truly ancient, are permitted for cultivation. The Lazio region currently has more than 20,000 hectares of vineyards. Falernian wine may be long gone, but the «Est! Est!! Est!!!» lives on – to the chagrin of many wine critics, because very few top-quality wines are produced under this name.
Riccardo Cotarella is one of the people responsible for helping the Lazio wine region come into its own. The world-famous «Flying Winemaker» settled in this wine region himself, and sets a marvellous example of what can be achieved with rather unspectacular grapes such as Malvasia and Trebbiano. In any case, his «Est! Est!! Est!!!» from Montefiascone has absolutely earned those exclamation marks.
The Lazio winegrowing region, which consists mainly of volcanic soils, is divided into two parts. The cool north produces white wine, the warmer south red. White wine accounts for around three quarters of production. In addition to the «exclamation mark wine», Malvasia and Trebbiano are also used in the renowned Frascati. The Orvieto white wine originates in Umbria, a wine region that borders Lazio, where it is also produced. This wine is based on the Grechetto grape. Both of these are wines that should be consumed cool and young.
Among the reds, one long-forgotten variety is currently making a comeback. Cesanese is an extraordinarily unconventional red wine; it is extremely mineral and acidity-forward, while boasting aromas of cherry and chocolate. More and more, winemakers are coming up with exciting creations that people are talking about.
The best place to try wine and local food in Lazio is, of course, the eternal city: Rome. This is not only the place to see breath-taking historic sites, it is also the best place in Italy to eat out. The Romans love getting together with family and friends at a restaurant. There are historical roots to this. In ancient Rome, citizens who lived in rented homes were prohibited from cooking over a fire. So even 2,000 years ago, the average Roman would go out to eat. And this still has not changed. Rome is known for the cosy and welcoming ambience of its bars and cafes, and for specialities such as Saltimbocca alla Romana (veal cutlets with air-dried ham and sage), the simplistic pasta dish Cacio e Pepe (with pecorino and black pepper) or «the fifth quarter» of the animal – a fanciful way of saying: the savoury insides.
Cannellino di Frascati, Cesanese del Piglio, Frascati Superiore
Aleatico di Gradoli, Aprilia, Atina, Bianco Capena, Castelli Romani, Cerveteri, Cesanese di Affile, Cesanese di Olevano Romano, Circeo, Colli Albani, Colli della Sabina, Colli Etruschi Viterbesi, Colli Lanuvini, Cori Bianco, Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone, Frascati, Genazzano, Marino, Montecompatri Colonna, Nettuno, Orvieto und Orvieto Classico, Roma, Tarquinia, Terracina, Velletri, Vignanello, Zagarolo
Casale del Giglio, Casale della Ioria, Cotarella, Fontana Candida, Sergio Mottura
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