Abruzzo

The Abruzzo winegrowers’ consortium features the eagle in its logo for good reason. This central Italian region, framed by the mountain peaks of the Apennines and the Adriatic Sea, is considered a wild land with pristine nature, rugged mountain landscapes, defiant fortifications and proud people. Thirty per cent of the territory is protected in the form of national and regional parks. With a bit of luck, you can actually spot eagles here, watch otters catch fish and even encounter bears and wolves.

Around 36,000 hectares of vineyards are cultivated in the Abruzzo region, mainly in the hilly areas in the centre of the country. The wine region is not yet amongst the stars of the Italian market: Three quarters of production is accounted for by cooperatives, and over 80 per cent of the vines are grown using the pergola system. This does not always yield the best results. But for around 20 years, some determined winemakers have been going about things in their own way. Using old vines, and thanks to strict yield reduction, they manage to create wines full of character, which are among the best-kept secrets of the «boot» – not least because they offer exceptional value for money.

As far as grape varieties are concerned, things are simple in Abruzzo. The area – except for very few patches – is divided up among two grapes. The red grape is the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo variety. It bears no relation to the village of Montepulciano in Tuscany, but is a grape in its own right which, when properly cultivated, produces dense, full-bodied, mineral red wine with great ageing potential. Cerasuolo is the name of the juicy rosé version of the same variety. White wine is made from Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, a fairly neutral-tasting grape that does not generally stand out as a top-quality variety. The old Pecorino variety is one to keep an eye on. It supposedly owes its name to the fact that sheep – «pecora» is the Italian word for sheep – used to enjoy its grapes. This variety is once again being increasingly planted today and produces a full-bodied, dry white with plenty of substance.

Abruzzo offers some unusual culinary specialities as well. For example, the saffron from the Navelli plateau or the red garlic that grows around the town of Sulmona. It owes its colour to the high proportion of essential oils – they not only give it a fantastic aroma, but also have all kinds of healing powers according to folklore. Savoury lamb dishes, mushrooms and truffles from the extensive forests, honey, sheep’s and goat’s cheese are all part of the gastronomic heritage of this idiosyncratic region. As in neighbouring Molise, the preparation of pasta alla chitarra has been perfected here, a rustic pasta variant that is like spaghetti or maccheroni but with a square profile. Incidentally, the best confectioners in Italy come from Abruzzo! Finally, as a digestif, the locals like to treat themselves to a Centerbe, a schnapps so strong that it is said to raise the dead. It is said to owe its flavour and its name to a hundred herbs.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane

Abruzzo, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, Controguerra, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Terre Tollesi, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Ortona, Villamagna

Masciarelli, Illuminati, Nicodemi, Umani Ronchi